There’s many perceptions on how a chemical peel actually effects our skin, the most common one being that is ‘peels’ away the top layer of our skin. While this view in particular isn’t false, it’s crucial to understand how and why peels can have this effect on our skin. Chemical peels in conjunction with cosmeceutical grade skin care have an astounding benefit, dramatically improving conditions like hyperpigmentation, fine lines, congestion, dullness, texture, and fragility. Chemical peels can benefit every skin, helping it look its best and healthiest self.

MYTHS:

• Peels cause our skin to become sensitive: This is probably the biggest misconception when it comes to peel, and often the first question clients will ask me. Your skin after a peel will be temporarily sensitised (and this is actually the response we want!), generally lasting two or more weeks long. Peels actually have a strengthening quality for our skin in the long run, especially when performed regularly on prepped skin.
• Peels can make you shed like a snake: While this myth isn’t necessarily untrue, it’s only more common with medium-deep peels. At The Face Place we only provide superficial-medium depth peels, as well as ensuring your skin is properly prepped before we perform any depth of chemical peel. We have a “start low, go slow” approach. This ensures a safe, predictable outcome, also meaning your first few appointments will be more of a light/dandruff like flakiness (if any at all).
• Peels are just facials: This is far from the truth. Apart from extremely superficial chemical exfoliants (e.g fruit enzymes) which would have more of a temporary beneficial effect, all our medical grade peels require you to be properly prepped on home care. This means our peels make a long-term visible difference for our skin.
• Peels are dangerous: At The Face Place the safety and efficacy of our peels are top priority. All our peels have been trialed and tested by our own skin team, meaning we know the exact process and outcomes each individual peel has. We are extremely picky with what we offer with our peels, only providing the creme de la creme of the industry.

HOW PEELS WORK:

• Exfoliation: This effect is often the only benefit people think of with chemical peels. This helps with a specific process called cellular-turnover, which often slows as we age, resulting in a dry, dull appearance. This can also be beneficial for congestion, as it helps to remove dead skin cells surrounding and/or clogging the follicles- a key process involved with all forms of congestion.

• Wound healing: This is where we notice the most benefit for our skin. With any kind of medical grade peel your skin will go through the wound healing process. So what does this process actually do, and how does it benefit?
  • Wound healing is a complex process in which the skin, and the tissues under it, repair themselves after injury. Wound healing is depicted through different phases: Hemostasis (blood clotting), inflammation, proliferation (tissue growth) and maturation (skin tightening).
  • It’s the last three stages in particular which have a significant benefit for our skin. The Inflammation stage helps our skin to clear out bacteria, pathogens and debris. Proliferation stimulates collagen and elastin, providing new tissue growth. And in maturation our collagen is re-aligned, and cells that are no longer needed or beneficial are removed through a process called apoptosis.
• Benefits of ingredients: Different peels are sourced from different main ingredients. For example, Lactic acid from milk, mandelic acid from bitter almonds, salicylic acid from willow bark, glycolic acid from sugar, TCA from vinegar, and vitamin A (aka retinol) derived from carrots or sweet potatoes. They each have different effects and benefits for our skin listed below. We also often “Layer” these specific ingredients; meaning we get multiple benefits from multiple ingredients – or to intensify the concentration of one particular ingredient.
  • Lactic Acid – The ‘gentlest’ form of AHA as it has a large molecular structure, meaning it doesn’t penetrate as deep compared to other peels and mainly sits on the surface layer of our skin. This stimulates our skin’s GAs (glycosaminoglycans) which aid in hydration. LA is also a tyrosinase inhibitor, meaning it directly improves hyperpigmentation aka UV damage.
  • Mandelic Acid – an AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) that works similarly compared to Salicylic acid, as it has antibacterial properties and works directly in our sebaceous unit. Good alternative for skins that are allergic to Aspirin or don’t want the downtime associated with Salicylic Acid.
  • Salicylic Acid – Has a smaller molecular structure, meaning it’s able to penetrate deeper into the skin. This is an effective BHA (beta hydroxy acid) that has antibacterial properties. Its oil loving nature makes it beneficial for oily/acneic skin types, while also being an analgesic and anti-inflammatory.
  • TCA – otherwise known as Trichloroacetic Acid, this has a Keratolytic effect on our skin, meaning it breaks down our skin’s Keratin. This would be considered a more “grunty” peel as it would arguably have more downtime compared to other peels, and often gives the skin sheet-like shedding post appointment. Great for ageing, hyperpigmentation, and scarring in particular.
  • Glycolic Acid – Has a smaller molecular structure compared to Lactic Acid, but not as “grunty” as Salicylic or Mandelic acid. This ingredient is often used in conjunction with other acids/ formulations to aid in product penetration, but can be beneficial for ageing, congestion, pigmentation and texture as well.
  • Vitamin A – Neither an AHA, BHA, or Keratolytic, however does have cellular-turnover level properties. It’s often used in conjunction with the other acids listed above, and in high doses, is one of the very few ingredients in skincare that helps with DNA repair. This has a knock on effect for stimulating collagen, regulating breakouts, reducing hyperpigmentation, improving vascularity/sensitivity, strengthening the skin and so on.

WHY DO WE NEED TO BE ‘PREPPED’?

Prepping your skin with The Face Place endorsed cosmeceutical products ensures that the skin will be able to “use” these ingredients from the peel to their best potential. This ensures you get the best results with your treatments you possibly can, as well as reducing potential side effects and shortening the duration of down time. We also approach the skin in a holistic manner, meaning that a good skin-care regime is vital in conjunction with your peels, as this will ensure on-going, long term, visible improvements to our skin. In essence, we want what’s best for your skin!